When I told my friends that I was going to spend a week in Albania and North Macedonia, I was faced with immense skepticism. They warned me about the Albanian mafia, the lack of infrastructure, and the obscure attractions. I admit, I was a bit nervous too, but also excited to explore two often overlooked tourist destinations. The trip had its highs and lows, but it was at the very least memorable and eye-opening. Would I do it again? Probably not anytime soon. Would I recommend it? It depends on what you are looking for. Here are my reflections on the two destinations.
Overall Pros
Diverse destination
Whether you're interested in history, nature, or cultural exploration, Albania and North Macedonia have a lot to offer for tourists seeking diverse and enriching experiences. Both have stunning natural landscapes (from beaches to canyons) for exploration, rich cultural heritage reflected in its architecture and cuisine, as well as charming and vibrant towns with hospitable local communities.
Affordable!
If you are used to Western European prices, you will be pleasantly surprised by how far your money can go in these countries. You can stay in a decent 4-star hotel for the same price as a dodgy hostel in London, and feast on the best seafood, meat, and wine for the same price as a mediocre meal in Paris. And if you are on a tight budget, you can still find tasty dishes for as low as 2 euros.
Less crowded (and more authentic)
You won't have to deal with hordes of tourists, long queues, or overpriced souvenirs in these countries. Even the most popular sites are relatively quiet and peaceful, allowing you to enjoy the natural beauty and cultural heritage without feeling rushed or overwhelmed. You will also have more opportunities to interact with the locals and learn about their history and traditions.
Safe (mostly)
I didn't encounter any major problems during my trip, although I did feel a bit uneasy in some places (as with any destination). I was definitely on high alert and kept an eye on my purse. However, I think these feelings were more due to the unfamiliarity of the language, culture, and systems, rather than any real danger. Despite the language barrier, the people were generally friendly and helpful.
Overall Cons
Transport
Don't expect to find any trains, metros, or reliable buses in these countries. They rely mostly on old and crowded minibuses with no official tickets, schedules, or stops. Our worst experience was a 5-hour ride from Tirana to Saranda, where there was limited ventilation on the bus, the safety belts and armrests were broken, and an old lady sat behind us threw up. Getting from Saranda to Ohrid was also a hassle, as there was no real information on how we should plan our travel, and we had to rely on hand gestures and google translate to ask locals for help. We were ushered from bus to bus without knowing for sure if we were going in the right direction, but managed to get to our destination in the end, thanks to the friendly locals who leveraged their local networks to ask for help. It can be slightly stressful if you like to have everything planned and organised, but you can always resort to a taxi if you are willing to pay a bit more. Taxis are not necessarily cheap though, as they know that tourists are their main customers and charge accordingly.
Under-developed
Some areas are clearly still in the process of development, with unpaved roads, unfinished buildings, and poor services. This can give a sense of authenticity and charm, but also frustration and inconvenience. However, if you stick to the tourist areas, you will find some nice cafes, restaurants, and hotels that cater to your needs and tastes. There is something refreshing about seeing the development, progress and potential of these places, as they have some impressive plans and designs for the future. I think in a few years, they will be much more attractive and comfortable for visitors.
Cash and payments
Most places only accept cash, and preferably the local currency. You can use euros in some places, but they will give you change in lek or denar. The exchange rate is pretty standard everywhere, though interestingly local shops have a much better rate than at the airport. I would recommend bringing enough cash for your trip, as withdrawing money from ATMs will cost you a hefty 6 euro fee each time. That's enough to buy you dinner here!
While that was my general impression of regions, there is definitely huge variation between the countries and even across the different towns / cities. Here is a quick summary of each destination - Albanian Riveria, Ohrid (North Macedonia), and Skopje (North Macedonia):
Albania:
I spent most of my time in the south of Albania, exploring the stunning coastline and the quaint towns. It was hard to get to, but worth the effort. Besides its pristine beaches, it also boasts numerous UNESCO World Heritage Sites and The more northern regions host the vibrant capital city of Tirana, as well as breathtaking mountainous landscapes for nature enthusiasts such as the Theth National Park. All in all, I would recommend Albania, but only if you do your research beforehand and know what to expect. It is less developed, less safe, and less convenient than North Macedonia, but also less touristy and slightly cheaper. It definitely has a unique Albanian charm and picturesque scenery, so it was definitely a memorable adventure.
Read here for my tips and advice on how to navigate the Albanian riviera, and a detailed itinerary (coming)!
Ohrid:
I loved Ohrid - it reminded me of a less crowded and less expensive version of Lake Garda in Italy, with a touch of Balkan charm. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its clear waters, historic churches, and scenic views. The old town centre was cozy and lively, and the lakefront was perfect for a relaxing stroll, with some iconic monuments along the way. The seafood here was amazing - fresh from the lake and cooked to perfection. It was a bit pricier than other places we went during the trip, but still very value for money.
Read here for my experience of Ohrid and a detailed itinerary (coming)!
Skopje:
Skopje is the capital of North Macedonia and was much more developed than Albania - they had regular buses, a larger and busier city centre, and more tours and activities to choose from. There were some natural landmarks such as the Matka Canyon to explore outside the city as well, which showcases North Macedonia’s beautiful natural setting and were surprisingly accessible for non-locals. Skopje was my least favourite out of the three places though, as it felt less authentic than the others, given much of the infrastructure and sights felt like it was re-constructed and re-designed to pander to tourists. Still, it is definitely worth a visit.
Read here for my experience of Skopje and a detailed itinerary (coming)!
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